Georgian

GEORGIAN JEWELRY

The term Georgian refers to an era in English history during the reign of King George l-lV from 1714 to1830.

The jewelry for the 18th to the mid 19th century in Europe and England, were influended by the  taste of the French emperor Napolean whose enthusiam for art, fashion and jewelry wer only eclipsed by his enthusiasm, for “France, the army and Josephine”-Napoleon’s famous last words.

Georgian  jewelry can be divided into three distinct styles:

Rococo

Gothic Revival

Neoclasical

All Georgian  jewelry was hand-made, the old fashion slow way with out the aid of electricity. This is one reason why Georgian jewelry is so desirable today and a favorite for jewelry collectors. Georgian jewelry is also the rarest form of antique jewelry available today.

After the Napoleonic wars gold was  scarse for making , therefore the jewelers used broad surfaces to make the appearnce  of much more gold.

Essentially in the 18th century Georgian jewelry is the ever present girandole motif, consisting of a surmount, bow and a three-drop form.

Unlike the open-work favored today for gemstones, the Georgian set gemstones over gold or silver foil with their backs enclosed with metal as rhinestones generally are today.

Napoleon Bonaparte regarded the luxury of his court as an aspect of national prestige. Around this time complete matching jewels known as parures begin to be worn.

Napoleon opened in Paris a school of gem engraving which boosted the production of cameos of Classical Greek mythology.

The cameo trend was adopted throughout Europe. There was also a trend for Egyptian mythology and motif such as hieroglyphs, scarabs and lotus leaves were revived.

Popular jewelry styles of the period were both elaborate and intricate, forming ornate arrangements such as a ‘chandelier style earring, riviere necklaces’ with their “flowing

river” of diamonds, and  multi-strand festoons or three-strand en esclavage necklaces’ forming swagged concentric rings. In keeping with the excesses of the times, diamonds were a favorite gemstones of the early Georgian Era. Gemstones were used in ornate repousse settings, forming a raised metal pattern by working from the back side of a piece of jewelry.